Modern Indian. That’s how Indian Flame describes itself in spite of an unmodern location in a strip mall beside Family Dollar and a nail salon, with McDonald’s and Dunkin’ squaring off across the street. Technically, this is Main Avenue, or Route 66, in Wynantskill, but as a continuation of Pawling Avenue, it could be South Troy. What stands out is the unlikelihood you’d be in this area if you don’t live nearby. But while there’s little in this stretch beside an American Legion outpost and Village Discount Wine & Liquor, Indian Flame is worth a trip.
Evidently, we’re not the first to know. Showing up a little after 4:30 p.m., the opening time for dinner (there’s also a daily lunch buffet), we find three other booths already filled. With sun streaming through the storefront windows of the former Rusty’s Pizzeria, there’s steady foot traffic collecting takeout or staying to dine in. By 5:15 p.m. two-thirds of the restaurant is full, with some of the pickup crowd still waiting like us, though we’re killing time with appetizers and chai. Soon it’s clear the kitchen is struggling to keep up in spite of smiling servers ferrying kitchen updates. It appears table service is getting out more quickly, but our wait for takeout exceeds a 90 minutes, so I’d strongly recommend ordering in advance. Aware of the long lag, management gave a discount when we paid.
Indian Flame
Address: 51 Main Ave., Wynantskill
Hours: Buffet lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner: 4:30 to 9 p.m. daily. (Closed on Wednesdays through mid-March.)
Prices: $5 to $26. Soft drinks. No liquor license.
Info: 518-953-0105 and indianflameny.com
Etc.: Onsite strip mall parking; ADA-accessible.
The meal was worth for. I’m a fan enough of dosa — the oversized rice-and-lentil crepes and the all-day favorite of South India — to order the ghee version made with clarified butter. It appears rolled in a…
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